Hawaii awaits: Why a visit to magical Maui is healing in more ways than one

Legend says that the demigod Maui lassoed the sun at the summit of Haleakala — the dormant volcano whose name means “house of the sun” in Hawaiian — to slow its descent and make the days on the island of Maui last longer.  

Another way to make a day in Hawaii last longer is by catching the spectacle of sunset 3,050 metres (10,000 feet) up at Haleakala National Park. 

“We’ll be above the clouds,” guide Lance Phelps of Unique Maui Tours promised. “You’ll feel like you’re flying.”

Being at the summit of Haleakala for the beginning or end of the sun’s daily journey is a profound experience that shouldn’t be missed. There wasn’t a lot of chatter as people stared out over the clouds. It was a rare thing in a busy world to be among a large group of people watching a natural spectacle in near silence, with only the wind in our ears.  

Fellowship like that seems easily felt on Maui. Its isolation in the middle of the Pacific is an opportunity to connect and slow down. But people may feel conflicted about coming to the Hawaiian island since the devastating wildfires that killed 102 people and destroyed much of historic Lahaina’s old town in 2023. 

While Canadians have always had big love for Maui as a winter getaway, some may wonder if it’s too soon to visit. Will they be welcome if they do? Will it be disrespectful?

What I heard repeatedly on my recent Maui visit was, the island, still coming back from COVID-19 financial losses, needs tourism to survive. Travellers are now encouraged to return and participate in its healing, free to fully embrace all the beauty this Pacific paradise offers.

“The best way to support Maui’s recovery is for travellers to visit,” said Leanne Pletcher, director of public relations and marketing for the Maui Visitors and Convention Bureau. 

By supporting local businesses, visitors can help residents rebuild their lives, she explained. That way, people who might otherwise have to look for work off-island can stay on Maui.

West Maui reopened to tourists last November. Recovery is underway. Resort hotels along Ka‘anapali Beach, used to house hundreds of families who lost their homes to the wildfires, are welcoming travellers once again.  

Old Lahaina townsite has been cleared of debris and the remains of 2,200 destroyed buildings. A long roadside memorial stands in remembrance along the Lahaina Bypass.

“The rebuild is starting, everything’s starting to come to life again,” said Lahaina resident Janelle Hiapo, VIP sales and marketing manager at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa.

The five-kilometre golden-sand stretch of Ka‘anapali Beach is a great base for a Maui getaway, with views of the islands of Lanai and Molokai just across the turquoise water and green volcanic mountains behind.

Follow the beachfront walking path to snorkelers’ paradise Pu’u Keka’a (Black Rock) at the north end of the beach, past pop-up markets, chic beachside cabanas, water sports kiosks and the shops, bars and restaurants of Whaler’s Village. Cool off with a shave — not shaved — ice topped with sweet tropical syrups at Island Vintage.  

Feel at one with the universe when the stars come out. Get a ticket for one of three nightly Tour of the Stars experiences at the Hyatt’s rooftop astronomy centre. With the help of star guide Donna Meistrich, we looked through two giant telescopes to see the magnificent Ring Nebula and rings of Saturn. 

Since you’re staying at the beach, it makes sense to get out on the water and feel the power of the wind and ocean. Large Hawaiian green sea turtles, called honu, leisurely swam in a shallow bay on our dolphin watching trip with Teralani Sailing Adventures. In winter, the stretch of ocean off Ka‘anapali Beach is a prime place for humpbacks. Since we only saw two dolphins, the captain said he’d throw in a free sailing, whether we came back this week, or in a year. 

The welcoming spirit of aloha is evident across Maui. And Maui could use some of that from us. Visitors are being asked to return in a spirit of meaningful travel, compassion and patience. A way to express community support is by volunteering for a couple of hours with Mālama Maui (caring for Maui). 

We spent a morning tending a patch of taro, traditional Hawaiian food plants, at Kipuka Olowalu, a non-profit restoring a Native Hawaiian valley cultural reserve. We laughed at our sometimes-clumsy efforts, got muddy and learned about the island’s culture. It was way more fun than a hotel gym workout. 

“Come to Maui. Be a visitor who’s going to support the visitor industry. Go spend money at a business, a restaurant,” said Ua Aloha Maji, a kāhu knowledge keeper and musician who leads volunteer groups at Kipuka Olowalu. 

It may be tempting to never leave the beach at Ka‘anapali, but there’s so much to see in Maui’s interior and the western (and wettest) part of the island on the way to Haleakala National Park. You’ll pass through an area known as Upcountry, a lush Eden with vibrant greenery, exotic flowers and small towns with colourful main streets. 

Our first stop was the ʻIao Needle. A paved walkway leads to a dramatic spire punching up 365 metres from the valley floor. Scenes for the movie Jurassic Park were shot here. A heritage botanical garden overlooks the fast-moving river below with a variety of the large and colourful Hawaiian native plants that grow in abundance on the Valley Isle. You’ll need to book a reservation for parking and to enter the site. 

At another stop, we admired dozens of protected Hawaiian green sea turtles basking on the sand at Ho’okipa Beach. With shells bigger than car tires, they can weigh well over 100 kg. Signs caution people to keep their distance. 

I loved the rustic feel of Makawao, the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town midway up the slope of Haleakala. The annual Fourth of July rodeo is a big deal in this small place. 

The route also has bragging rights as the world’s biggest elevation gain in the shortest distance, going from sea level to Maui’s highest point at Haleakala in the dramatic final 60 km. 

Fog set in as the road climbed past the farms and gardens of rustic Kula, then we were up beyond the treeline in a series of switchbacks to the top.  

We got to Haleakala in time to walk along a cinder desert landscape trail overlooking the sunken volcano crater and the futuristic buildings of the Haleakala Observatory site. Rare, spiked Haleakala silversword plants, unique to this place, seemed to glow as the light faded. 

We settled into camp chairs at the edge of the ancient lava flow to watch the sunset, wrapped in coats and blankets against the high-altitude chill. 

A puffy cloudscape is a familiar sight from an airplane window, but this was a new and thrilling view. The gathered sunset watchers were quiet. Some embraced. The setting sun illuminated the far edge of the steely white, clumpy cloud field below our feet in fiery red and orange. I heard Joni Mitchell’s song description of ice cream castles playing in my head. And it did feel just like flying. 

Newly renovated Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa is located on a 40-acre beachfront property. Rooms are spacious.

The Westin Maui Resort and Spa is also newly renovated. Guests in the Hokupa‘a Tower can upgrade to get access to the private Lanai at Hokupa‘a lounge for cocktails, light meals and snacks.

Air Canada and WestJet offer direct flights from Vancouver to Maui.

Go to gohawaii.com/islands/maui to help plan your trip.

Linda Barnard was a guest of Hawai’i Tourism Canada which did not preview this story.